Understand Plastic Temperatures
It starts out with the temperatures of the plastic. The temperature of the plastic coming out of the molding machine should be right down the middle of the manufacturer’s spec. If you can run a mold here, […]
It starts out with the temperatures of the plastic. The temperature of the plastic coming out of the molding machine should be right down the middle of the manufacturer’s spec. If you can run a mold here, […]
How do you get a ready-to-go mold? Obviously, it starts with good design with no broken rules. It must be cut properly. It must be assembled properly. Checks must be made to ensure that all items function as designed, clearances are proper and water lines are correct based on flow. […]
The unitized system offers considerable improvements in quality and addresses the cost of repair favorably. Since the integrated system is based upon using the unitized prewired design for installation in the mold, the chance for pinched or severed heater and thermocouple wires is eliminated during assembly. […]
On unitized systems, the nozzles and manifold block constitute a single drop-in unit. The melt channel runs from the manifold block directly to the nozzle without any potential misalignment or dead spots. Any potential for plastic leakage between the nozzles and the manifold block is eliminated since the nozzles are inserted within the manifold by [...]
When choosing plating for your mold or mold components, you must first identify the problem to be solved or the problem to be prevented. The first question you should ask is “What is the cause of this problem? Is this problem the result of corrosion or wear?” If the component has previously been plated, this [...]
There are two basic types of plating – electrolytic and electroless. Electrolytic plating requires electricity to make the process occur. There is a positive and negative charge. The positive is called the anode and the negative is the cathode. The part to be plated gets the negative charge so it becomes the cathode. The anode [...]
The most common problem associated with polishing aluminum is the deep scratches that plague the finishes. Three things primarily cause deep scratches in aluminum: 1) The wrong type of abrasive being used. 2) Too much downward pressure from the polisher's hand. 3) Using too long a stroke while stoning. Aluminum is primarily stoned by hand [...]
The secret to getting a good diamond finish is to first have a fine scratch stone finish. The way to achieve this finish is to lighten up on the downward pressure as you stone . At first, you push down as hard as you need to in order to get rid of deep existing scratches, [...]
Assuming that your work is wide enough, start by putting a one-inch cup brush into your rotary hand piece. If your stone finish is truly good enough, a diamond compound in the nine-micron range will work like magic; however, don’t feel bad if the nine-micron diamond won’t take out the stoning marks and you have [...]
After a good brushing job, it’s time to do a soft buff, but before you begin it’s critical to take a good, long look at exactly how deep the brush marks are. They are probably only .0002 of an inch deep or less, so when you start with the buff, press down with less pressure. [...]